Equipment Guide
You will often hear that words akin to performance being based on the player, rather than the tools, however this not the whole truth. As the level of play increases, the differences that equipment can make to the game become more relevant.



Badminton Rackets
In my opinion, choosing the right racket matters at all ages and abilities. If you are younger, you will need a shorter sized racket, if you are using a regular sized racket, you will need to think about the properties of your racket. How heavy it is, where and how it's balanced, the material it's made from, what type of string you are using, what tension it's strung at, what type of grip you are using, how thick the grip is and more.
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You will undoubtedly hear about 3 general categories of badminton racket at some point, these being "head heavy", "head light" and "balanced". In general, "head heavy" rackets are used to gain more power on shots, they usually have less control than other rackets as well; they are used for power attack playstyles, popular amongst men as you might imagine. "Head light" rackets are naturally more controlled per shot and swing faster through the air, allowing for better defence and enhancing your fast reactions; from my experience, many female players and doubles players like to use this type of racket. Balanced rackets are best for all round playstyles, they balance control and power as much as possible, however some balanced rackets are designed to be slightly head heavier for extra power or vice versa.
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Professional rackets these days come with a whole range of features and "new" technologies that are somewhat difficult to understand, so I will clear some of those up for you here, highlighting what benefits they give you if so:
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Size/Weight:
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3U = 88g
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4U = 83g
Generally, rackets are found between 70g-90g in weight. A simple way to think about which is best for you, is based on your preferred balance between swing speed and power. a 3U racket will swing through the air slightly slower, but it will produce more power as there is more weight behind the swing.
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Types of Grip:
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Full Grip (usually found in G1-G4)
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Towel Grip (usually found in G1 - G4)
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Overgrip (Usually found in G4-G6)
Grip:
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G1 = Extra Large sized grip
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G2 = Large sized grip
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G3 = Medium sized grip
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G4 = Small sized grip
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G5 = Extra Small sized grip
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G6 = Extra Extra Small sized grip
This is similar to the size and weight of the racket, in that to provide more power you want a thicker grip. For easier control, swing speed and deception, you want a thinner grip where your fingers can more easily manipulate your racket. Another tit-bit I've heard in my time, is that generally a thinner grip is correlated with wrist problems later on in life. For this reason, I like to use an overgrip on my rackets.
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Sonic Metal:
Sonic Metal is an exceptionally strong, lightweight and flexible titanium alloy which is embedded in the top of the frame. This has two advantages: firstly, it gives you a higher repulsion power, especially in attack. Secondly, it creates a clear strong sound when the shuttlecock is hit. This acoustic, combined with the dramatic increase in repulsion, will put your opponent under immediate pressure.
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Isometric Headshape:
This feature equalizes the length of the main and cross strings in the string-bed, enlarging the sweet spot for more consistent accuracy even on off-centre hits.
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T-Anchor:
A composite material used in the T-joint helps reduce excess torque when hitting an off centre shot.
My own racket:
Arcsaber 11:
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Size/Grip: 3UG4 (+overgrip)
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Weight: 88g
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Strings: BG80
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Tension: 28lb
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Construction: HM Graphite/ Neo CS/ Carbon Nanotube/Sonic Metal/Ultra PEF
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​Headshape: Isometric
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Balance: Even
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Grip size: G5 (Small)
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Stiffness/Flex: Stiff
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T-Anchor
I chose this racket as I previously used the Arcsaber 10. These are balanced professional rackets, however whereas the Arcsaber 10 was more about control, the Arcsaber 11 was more tuned towards power. This fits my playstyle as it allows me to perform point precision net shots as well as being able to deliver a devastating power smash.
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I attach an overgrip over the standard factory grip, or if the racket is old enough to have eroded through the factory grip, 2 overgrips.
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My strings are BG80, strung at 28lb. Previously I was using BG65 Ti, as this string lasted the longest, however I decided to invest more and utilise BG80 to gain more power with each hit. With this new string, my rackets do require stringing more often, almost 2-3 months earlier than with BG65 Ti. I found that BG80 Power was too high repulsion for me so I settled for BG80. I string higher at 28lb, but not as high as 32 like the international players, in order to balance higher power and performance to cost of restringing. Due to this, I make sure I have 3 of these rackets in my bag to ensure I can continue playing through matches if strings break. I think this is a suitable enough setup for league level play.
Strings
Your choice of string is the second most important decision after your choice of racket.
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On the right is a grid of different well known strings and how their stats apply. "Solid Feel" is describing more control, or holding time.
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I tend to think of strings in 3 ways, their control, their power and their durability. Additionally, based on your budget, you want to be thinking of the frequency and cost of restringing your rackets, once their strings do inevitably break.
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For the string with a balanced feel and the most durability (at least that I've experienced), I would recommend the BG65 Ti. This was actually the string I used through my first decade playing badminton and even playing at county level, a restring was needed perhaps once every 8-12 months. It is also a string that most restringing shops will usually always have in stock, which is quite helpful.
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Around the time I was 20, I looked at using different strings to the trusty BG65 Ti, and tried out BG66 Ultimax first of all. This string just felt wrong to me. That's not to say it's not a good string as many professionals do use it, but I found that the "perfect balance between control and power" was a little weird. It did indeed have a longer holding effect on the shuttle, and also packed around the same punch as BG80, but with a less crisp sound. This combo of sensations didn't really agree with me as I felt it made my play feel less impactful, sudden and took away some of the power of the contrast when I switch playstyles from soft to power.
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A couple years into my 20s, I looked at strings with more power, as I was comfortable with my technique and ability to control the shuttle with my racket. I tried out BG80 and BG80 Power. I found that BG80 Power was very powerful. What I considered a standard clear would actually go at least a foot further; and the strings even looked thin! I decided that I could control the power of BG80 much better and it gave enough power that I did not need to fully exert myself to produce a dangerous power smash. The restring for BG80 is probably once every 4-6 months.

Badminton Shoes
The most important piece of equipment are your badminton shoes. Why? Because anyone can lend you the other equipment. Your shoes are for your size feet and usually, others do not carry spares.
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Apart from this, badminton shoes make more of a difference than you might think. You can tell if someone has the proper shoes by looking to see if the bottom side has a special, usually orangey-gold colour, hex looking grip, which curves round the edges of the shoe. The most important benefit of this design for me, is the fact that it reduces the risk of twisting your ankle by a considerable margin. Before I changed to these shoes, I would twist my ankle many times, however afterwards, I only twisted my ankle twice in 15 years.
I have seen many amateur players get on court with regular trainers, and with untrained movements, twist their ankles and fall over. It feels as if I should maybe warn such players, especially if they do not attend the session regularly, just to be careful. But most people do not care to hear such things, especially as most do not think equipment makes such a difference.
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The second most important feature of badminton shoes, in my opinion, is the power cushion. My first pair of proper badminton shoes was about £50, and I didn't really feel too much difference. It felt better, obviously but it wasn't the "hype" I had been led to believe. That is until I bought a pair around £90. When I put them on and jumped on court, I really felt it was much easier. My calf muscles did less work to push off the ground and it was easier to split step, change direction and jump. The power cushion really worked!
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You can also buy light badminton shoes. These actually do feel lighter, and when I used a pair for a season, I definitely felt like my feet were lighter and I could move faster, the power cushion still being decent.
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